Wine Notes

Chardonnay

See our notes from a recent vertical tasting of Ian's Reserve Chardonnay (1996-2003).

Chardonnay clusters Chardonnay is in the midst of a makeover in Oregon. Although grown more broadly worldwide than any other variety, chardonnay thrives best in cool climates. The seeming flood of chardonnay in the marketplace comes not because there is too much White Burgundy or Chablis, but because warm climates think the grape's agreeable nature and easy winemaking means they can artificially make good wine. ABC (Anything But Chardonnay) drives today's white wine purchases because of the many over-oaked, sweet, acid-less chardonnays that bear no resemblance to steely Chablis, structured and unctuous Montrachets or Cortons, or, now, rich and finely tuned Oregon chardonnays.

The key to putting Oregon chardonnay in the same league as great French chardonnays is clones. For years Oregon has grown clones of chardonnay selected for warmer climates, that need longer ripening and acid retention-the opposite of what cool climates need-to only moderate success, leading cool climate wine fans to ask "If you do so well with Burgundy's red, why not their white?" Only now are proper clones available in Oregon and the results are startling. The Burgundians replant their vineyards with these same clones, "Dijon" since they were developed at the institute in Dijon.

Over the last two decades strong cooperation between Burgundians and Oregonians, led by Raymond Bernard and David Adelsheim, respectively, resulted in a number of clones being brought into Oregon State University's clonal importation program. From the clones evaluated and sent through disease testing, the favorites are known by their ID numbers 75, 76, 95 and 96 and have now been propagated into hundreds of acres which have been planted throughout the valley. Enough tonnage has been harvested since the mid 90s to validate our initial impressions of broad flavors, richness and earlier ripening.

There is a passionate core of Oregon wineries going forward with Dijon clone chardonnays at a time when some dejected winemakers worldwide, awash in lackluster chardonnay, are abandoning the variety. Even some fellow Oregon wineries are focusing elsewhere for easier sells, with Pinot gris and Pinot noir, rather than bucking the trend. A passionate few have banded together to introduce Oregon Dijon Chardonnay nationally, a difficult task in this climate, but one that is necessary if you feel the world will never have enough White Burgundy-or White Oregon.

All of our chardonnays contain the new Dijon clones: the WV in a blend with the higher acid Draper and 108 selections (2001 is 70:30, Dijon:108), and the Ian's and INOX™ 100% Dijon. Our WV and Ian's Reserve chardonnays are barrel fermented, in tight-grained French oak (new oak being reduced to 35% to compensate for natural "oak" flavors from Dijon), go through full ML fermentation, and stay on the lees with stirring for richness and fullness (8-10 months for WV and 12-14 months for Ian's). Our INOX™ Chardonnay is 100% tank fermented. The Dijon clones mature earlier, with fully ripe, soft, exotic fruit flavors and a structure that should make jaded ABC palates go back, able to afford White Burgundy at last.

Wine Enthusiast, July 2002, " Dijon Clones Make All the Difference," Paul Gregutt. ... Dijon Clones ... are making wines that are a quantam leap better; thrilling wines that belong with the best in the country. Chehalem's Harry Peterson Nedry is one of a group of Northern Willamette Valley winemakers committed to redefining cool-climate chardonnay using the Dijon clones.the natural balance, complexity and elegance of the fruit, combines with vivid acidity means that winemakers are going for..

The Wine Advocate said the 1997 Ian's Reserve is "certainly one of the finest Oregon Chardonnays I have tasted to-date."

Dave McIntyre's WineLine, June 11, 2006, "Two Unoaked Chards." ABC really could be called ABO -- anything but oak. The extreme example of the movement's success is unoaked Chardonnay. These came originally from New Zealand and Australia, but some wineries in the U.S. are now making them and bragging about it. Oregon's Chehalem bottles an unoaked "INOX" (French for stainless steel) Chard that is a winner year in and year out.