Riesling grape clusters: small, intense and getting riper

There is a reason, somehow lost on most American wine consumers, that Riesling is one of the noble varieties. It has to do with the unparalleled elegance, balance and nuance possible with the variety. It is the quintessential cool climate varietal in that it is beautiful grown in the right locales, but dreadfully blah in inappropriate, warmer regions.

Riesling also suffers from the familiarity most people have of the wines. As a very versatile wine, it can be made in several distinct styles and from regions where their idea of quality is measured in more tons per acre. Most consumers have therefore encountered Rieslings early in their education as semi-sweet, insipid, high volume white wines suited for quaffing. The idea of a complex, perfectly balanced food wine with the breadth of interest and intensity to go with almost any food or cuisine seems foreign to them. I have even been known to substitute a great, complex Riesling in a red wine situation. I often measure wine sophistication by whether a consumer has returned to Riesling, now appreciating its finesse, acidity and food friendliness.

Chehalem is committed to making Dry Riesling in a style reminiscent of Alsace, i.e., low-cropped, late harvested, fermented dry and perfectly balanced. Intensity, moderate alcohol and long finishes complete a wine with complex floral, white fruit and petrol aromatics.

The wines we have made between 1995 and 1999 show a family resemblance of intensity and balance, but show vintage variability as well. Not all vintages are appropriate for our Riesling Reserve, 1997 not being adequate for designation. In all vintages, the 1.1 acres at Corral Creek we use for our reserve is the last vineyard block harvested from our three estate vineyards. We have harvested between November 4 and 14, with varying amounts of botrytis. Residual sugars in the final wines have been 0.8% or less, with sugar being used to balance varying levels of acidity. A variety of yeasts, fermented over cool temperatures yield elegant aromatics and protect the structure of the wines.

We consider our wines primarily food wines and expect them to age well for one or more decades. The balance, acid and fruit should guarantee that. It is time we all embrace the variety that Alsace and Germany make so well. Although many of our customers consider our Riesling Reserve almost a cult wine and their favorite domestic Riesling, we care less whether people rave about our wine, we just passionately feel it is time we all embrace the variety that Alsace and Germany make so well.

The 1999 Corral Creek Riesling Reserve is being released at the Reserve Release and Art Show. Its miniscule quantity of 125 cases and quality superior to every other vintage except 1996, with which it is an equal, make it available only this once.