Feature Article : Looking Forward, Looking Back

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Looking Forward, Looking Back

MM is upon us and the hoopla is humorous. I like MM over Y2K, because Roman numerals are classical, neater, less headline in nature--and because it conjures up famous MM's of my youth: Marilyn Monroe, Mickey Mouse, Mickey Mantle, M&Ms, and 2/3 rds of 3M, the breeding ground of post-its. Although time thresholds or boundaries are artificial constructs, years and decades and centuries and millennia do at least make us pause at some point. Pause to honor the past and predict the future--it's natural. It gives greater value to today.

Chehalem is 10 years old, my oldest vineyard almost 20 years old. Grapegrowing in Oregon is 33 years old. Oregon was "discovered" fewer than 200 years ago. The USA is just over 220 years old. In the scheme of things, these timeframes are pitifully small.

Context is important. We are relevant based on who we are, what we achieve, who we influence. There is a flow into which we fit. In the best situations we build rather than destroy as we move forward. The husbandry of ancient lands and traditions is one of the richest aspects of the wine business, especially as classic European families practice it. Maybe I've seen too much Masterpiece Theatre, but having lands undivided, with children living where ancestors lived, honoring tradition and caretaking businesses and heritage is comforting. However, it is ironic as the French inheritance laws begin to unravel the fabric of families in wine, allowing tony luggage makers to pickup centuries-old family firms and stuff them in their bags, asking wisdom of accountancy rather than of viticulture; that newer regions are valuing this long-term commitment to the winemaking more.

Oregon's founders are beginning to share with the next generation, giving tutelage to their daughters and sons or to a younger generation of zealots. Papa Pinot, David Lett of Eyrie, now has his son Jason at his side in the winery and at events of importance, to David's obvious pleasure. Steve Vulsteyke and Scottie Henry (IV) have long since taken over the Oak Knoll and Henry Estate daily reins. The Ponzi family is well integrated in all aspects of the business, with Luisa sliding into the winemaker role. Likewise, Elk Cove's Pat and Joe Campbell are less visible as son Adam makes more and more decisions as winemaker, while Susan Sokol Blosser's son Alex is beginning to direct marketing aspects of the brand, with new appeal to younger population with efforts like their Evolution #9 and environmental concerns....and the batons are passed.

Even the nature of Oregon's current expansion speaks to the same growth from within, honoring the past and moving forward. We are currently in a growth phase I would characterize as the apprentice phase, discretely different from the initial stubborn technical idealist then romantic hippie then well-heeled doctors then more dollars than sense then outside validation phases before. Most of the new efforts now or in the near future will be from second-in-commands who are gaining experience or contacts or money working in the industry, then starting small labels they hope are the next Screaming Eagles, fledgling, but hell-bent on flight!

Our future at Chehalem is certain, but options are varied. From the three estate vineyards we sell half our fruit to others and, therefore, could be twice our size should we choose. And in choosing to be larger, we could enlarge Chehalem as a label or through meiosis divide ourselves, adding another label. Or... We are also becoming interested in other areas like New Zealand, possibly only in drinking their wines and following their progress, but perhaps in doing some work there. Who knows. Also, at some point, it will be time to turn the future over to Cheryl and/or Wynne and/or the twins. Thresholds like MM are times to let the imagination go, to let the future emulate the past.