Newsletter Archives > Viticulture

In the Vineyard : Fall 2003

And This is Supposed to be a Cool Climate!

Mike filling out
punchdown instructions
in lab

Global warming is a reality, no matter what the government says, with vines more sensitive than Bushes, apparently. The growing season has been hot and dry, with Accumulated Heat Units thus far through September of 2200+ or 111% of the 30 year average through September of 1979, with the excellent 2002 and 2001 seasons seeing 1943 and 1974, respectively. So far in 2003, there have been 48 days above 85 degrees F, compared to 33 and 34 days in 2002 and 2001. We have seen exactly 1.00 inches of rain since June 1st, compared to a 30 year average of 3.46 inches and 2.06 and 3.53, for 2002 and 2001.

Chilling fruit in our cold room is critical in 2003 to maintain fruit and fermentation integrity

And, so what? Everything is clean and very ripe, with no real disease pressure, especially no botrytis. But everything is low in acid, with at least one to two grams less per liter than normal. There will be some acid correction to maintain balance. And then there's the question of where to put the fruit. We have been particular to leave only 2 to 2 1/2 tons per acre on pinot noir, but the heat has reduced vineyard timing differences, meaning we may be ready to bring Ridgecrest in before we have completed Stoller and Corral Creek fermentations.

Elizabeth and Marieta sorting Pinot noir

Some cooling has begun by this writing, but we've already harvested 50% of our fruit by October 1st, the prior five vintages averaging only 8%. Fruit is averaging sugars over 26 brix.

— Harry
(P.S. Michael is busy in the vineyard at the moment.)
More on our 2003 Harvest Page.

Interned at Chehalem's Gulag

Every year winemakers, winemakers-in-training and wine addicts voluntarily surrender to work harvest, sequestered in winery housing, and indentured with others they have never previously met. They are often from the Southern Hemisphere, conspiring to add a second harvest six months after their own. We from the Northern Hemisphere likewise go down-under six months earlier to gain experience. Reality is that rosy-cheeked winemakers may only collect 40 vintages before they dotter their way to the sidelines. And, if you've seen a vintage before, you'll make better wine.

Past Chehalem harvest interns are now winemakers in New Zealand, Austria, Bordeaux, Argentina, Australia and Chile. Both Michael Davies and Mike Eyres are Kiwis (from New Zealand) and first worked harvest with us in 1999 and 2001, respectively, before being talked into staying.

Meet this year's great 2003 Harvest crew:

Greg filling barrels with pinot noir

Greg Brown—some people never get enough. Greg worked harvest last year and so is the core of our team. A Kiwi, Greg works at Rosemount in Australia, is the strong and silent type, is systematic, humorous and solid. A former dairy farmer, he knows how to fix anything. Thanks for recidivism.

Hilary washing buckets

Hilary Chamberlain—a biologist fresh out of U of North Carolina in 2002, investigating life's possibilities with a bright, positive attitude. She was a roommate of my daughter Wynne at Bryn Mawr before transferring to UNC, and has worked the winter at Oregon's Mount Bachelor and summer in Montana parks. She assists Marieta in lab analysis and does a mean monkey imitation!

Elizabeth washing the conveyor

Elizabeth Codevilla—another high-energy, positive woman on staff, Elizabeth wants to try every task from driving forklift to serving a high-rent dinner made by James Beard Award winning chefs. A 2001 UC-Davis grad, she has traveled the world working harvests and, although a Yank with roots in California and Wyoming, wants to settle in New Zealand.

Steve loading pinot blanc into the press

Steve Dowd—a testament to immersion, Steve is a New York City sommelier (Town) who wanted to know more—all the wet and grimy aspects—plus spend intense time on the west coast. A broad knowledge of wine, athleticism, a willingness to pitch in on anything and the maturity of forty years make Steve a teacher as well as student.

Malcolm pumping over a pinot noir fermentor to mix and aerate

Malcolm Francis—another masochist back for another year, Malcolm worked the 2002 harvest at Cristom. Malcolm is assistant winemaker at Felton Road in New Zealand's Central Otago region and will be monitoring the Stoller Vineyards Brand cuvées. Systematic, experienced and quiet—the characteristics of someone who could "spring you from this joint!"

Marieta hydrating yeast for inoculation

Marieta Blasco Perez—the third high-energy woman, Marieta is from Spain's Valencia district and is armed with an awesome command of English and an infectious sense of humor. She is a PhD candidate, has worked harvest in Australia and is managing our lab this harvest. We anticipate great paella, alberinos and laughter.